POSTPRINTS of the Textile Specialty Group is published by the Textile Specialty Group of the American Institute for Conservation of Historic Works (AIC). POSTPRINTS is distributed to members of the Textile Specialty Group. Additional copies may be purchased from the American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works, 1717 K Street, Suite 200, Washington, DC 20006. http://aic.stanford.edu

Papers presented in this publication have been edited fro clarity and content but have not undergone a formal process of peer review. Responibility for methods and / or materials described herin rests soley with the contributors and should not be considered official statements of the Textile Specialty Group or AIC.

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints - 1991

 

Table of Contents

 

Preface

Page 5


A View from the Top: Reinstallation of the Rhode Island State House Tapestries.
Deirdre Windsor

Page 6


Evaluating Textile Treatments: Discussing the State-of-the-Art.
Sara Wolf, Patricia Ewer, Jane Hutchins, Mary Buonocore Kaldany, Barbara Applebaum

Page 17


Investigation, Engineering and Conservation Combined: The Reconstruction of a Seventeenth Century Dress.
Teresa Knutson

Page 26


Conservation of Grave Garments from Spanish Colonial Santa Fe 1690-1710.
Terri Schindel

Page 46

 

 

Joint Session of the Paintings and Textiles Specialty Groups Postprints - 1991

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Painting or Textile? Notes on the Treatment of a Satin Political Banner with Oil Portrait.
Mary Buonocore Kaldany  

Page 1


Raising the Flag: The Examination and Treatment of a Civil War Era Painted Silk Flag.
Nancy R. Pollak and Fonda G. Thomsen      

Page 9


Spills, Splatters, and Leaks: Taking the Stain Out of the Stain Painting.
Leni Potoff         

Page 18


Conservation of an 18th Century Deccan Pechhavai.
Deborah Bede                                                              

Page 19


The Suction Sick and the Quilt Square: Further Investigations.
Susan Anne Mathisen and Mary Ashton                     

Page 28


Poulticing Techniques for Textiles.
Leslie Melville Smith                                 

Page 38


The Structural Treatment of Two Hoarfrost Series Pieces by Robert Rauschenberg.
Carolyn Tallent and Denise Domergue                   

Page 39


Surfactant Comparison Test.
Melissa Boring and Patricia Ewer                            

Page 41

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints - 1992

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 


Predicting the Drying Behavior of Textiles
Kathy Francis   

Page 1


Evaluation of the Effects of Wet Treatments on Dry Site Archaeological Textiles, Phase One: Visible and Tensile Changes
Sara Wolf, and Cynthia Hughes               

Page 7


The Deterioration and Preservation of Silk
Eric F. Hansen, and Harry Sobel                 

Page 14


Climate and Conservation
Mary Ballard                      

Page 31


Comparison of Treatments for Damage in Oriental Carpets
Elizabeth Callison Petillo        

Page 46


The Conservation of Painted Wall Coverings from Clayton House, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Gilbert Delcroix, Veronica Illes, and Violaine Lion       

Page 60


An Eighteenth Century Liturgical Garment Reveals Its Secrets
Frances Whitaker Mayhew, and Malgorzota Podkanska   

Page 66

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints - 1993

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface   

Page 5


A Study of Deposits on Glass in Direct Contact with Mounted Textiles
Susan C. Heald, Lucy Commoner, Mary W. Ballard  

Page 7


Methodology of Color Measurement of Historic Textiles
Deborah Bede                  

Page 19


The Chemical Interaction of Surfactants with Fibers, Especially Silk
Heason Rhee, Mary W. Ballard      

Page 28


Rescuing Water Damaged Textiles During L.A.’s Urban Riots
Dubravka Turkovic Kiseljev    

Page 38


Rigid Mount Support Systems for the Exhibition of Textiles Using Less Intrusive Sewing Methods
Zoe Annis Perkins 

Page 47


The Conservation of a Fan Using Microfiber Fabrics
LaTasha D. Harris, Susan Anne Mathisen

Page 57


Pre-Program Textile Conservation Internships
Patricia Ewer, Catherine C. McLean, Rachel Paar 
 

Page 65

SMALL GROUP DISCUSSIONS - Summaries 

Page 78


Passive Storage and Display Mounts

 


Planning Large Scale Textile Projects

 


Cleaning Techniques

 


Dyes and Dyeing

 


Humidification and Dehumidification Techniques

 

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints - 1994

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface 

Page 5


Interdisciplinary Philosophies. Textiles and Paper: A Common Ground
Kathleen Kiefer

Page 7


Diverse Solutions from the Upholstery Lab at SNEA
Anne Battram      

Page 17


Basket Cases: Two Upholstery Treatments Composed of Plant Materials
Nancy C. Britton                              

Page 27


History of the Paper Conservation Catalog: Lessons for the Textile Group
Kate Maynor             

Page 39


The Textile Conservation Catalog to Date
Sara J. Wolf 

Page 45

 

 

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints - 1995

 

 

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page 7


Papers from the Panel: Water - What About it?”

Pages 8-23


Deborah Bede
Water - What About it?”

Page 9


Susan C. Heald
Deionized Water and its Reactivity - Could it be Damaging?” 

Page 12


Jane Merritt
The Developing and Installation of a Purified Water System

Page 15


Meredith Montague
pH Testing Methods in Textile Conservation

Page 20


Papers from the Panel: Review of Current Practices in Wet Cleaning

Pages 24-37


Patricia Ewer
Practicalities of Wet Cleaning

Page 25


Davis E Walker
Surfactants in Textile Conservation

Page 29


Rebecca Johnson-Dibb
Contact Cleaning of Textiles

Page 35


Papers from the Panel: To Clean or Not to Clean - Decision Making for Textile Wet Cleaning

Pages 38-51


Deirdre Windsor
To Clean or Not to Clean? Decision Making for Textile Wet Cleaning

Page 39


Six Case Studies on the Topic of Wet Cleaning

Page 52-98


Cara Varnell
From Tubs to Tables: A Survey of Wet Cleaning Equipment Used in Textile Conservation

Page 53


Susan Anne Mathisen
The Use of Reemay in Wet Cleaning

Page 64


Susan Alder, Linda Eaton
Chelating Agents in Wet Cleaning Systems

Page 69


Ela Keyserlingk, Jan Vuori
Wet Cleaning of an Oversized Textile on a Vacuum Wash Table

Page 79


Camille Myers Breeze, Marlene Eidelheit
Hats off to Wet Cleaning!

Page 87


Chris Paulocik
Wet Cleaning in 3-D

Page 93

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints - 1996

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

Page 7

Preface

 


PAPERS FROM THE PANEL: Display Method Update

Pages 8-29


Update - Costume Display Methods
Polly Willman

Pages 9-11


Display Methods for Small Textiles
Vuka Roussakis

Pages 12-13


Mounting Large Textiles
Muffie Austin

Pages 14-16


Curatorial and Conservation Considerations for a 14th-15th Century Mamluk Cap
Robin M. Hanson, Linda Easton

Pages 17-29


PAPERS FROM THE PANEL: Documentation: More Than Just Paper

Pages 30-53


Beyond Paper
Jane L. Merritt

Pages 31-36


Documentation: More Than Just Paper
David Boyne, Deborah Lee Trupin

Pages 37-45


Addressing Some Problems in Textile Photodocumentation
Susan R. Schmalz

Pages 46-53


PAPERS FROM THE PANEL: Analytical Techniques

Pages 54-93


A Spot-Test Directory for Material Characterization
Nancy Odegard, Scott Carroll, Werner Zimmt

Pages 55-60


A Technical Study of Painted Textiles
James S. Martin

Pages 61-69


Textile Pseudomorphs From 17th Century Native American Burials
Cathy Coho


Pages 70-78


Identification of Dyes on Textiles From RI-1000
Rebecca Johnson-Dibb, Margaret Ordonez

Pages 79-90


Fiber-Safe Extraction of Red Mordant Dyes
Erica J. Tiedemann, Yiqi Yang

Pages 91-93


GENERAL SUBMISSION OF PAPERS

Pages 94-122


Textile Conservation Issues
Virginia J. Whelan, Linda Eaton

Pages 94-103


Photographing Textiles: Answers to Questions Submitted by the AIC Textile Specialty Group
Dan Kushel

Pages 104-122

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints - 1997

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page 5


If You Can’t Beat’em Join’em
Vicki Cassman

Page 7


Preservation of Maya Textile Fragments Excavated Ninety Years Ago in the Yucatan: A Closer Look
Nancy Love and T. Rose Holdcraft

Page 12


The Unprecedented Discovery of The Royal Purple Dye on the Two Thousand Year-Old Royal Masada Textile
Zvi C. Koren

Page 23


Compensation / Restoration of a Tuscarora Beaded Cloth with Tuscarora Beadworkers
Susan Heald

Page 35


The Use of Textile Pigments in Conservation Applications
Nancy Britton

Page 40


Anna Pavlova’s Tutu: Compensation for Loss
Joanne Hackett

Page 50


Supporting Tears in Leather
Gwen Spicer

Page 57


Compensation for Loss in Textiles Using Commercially Available and Easy to Use Artists Coloring Materials: Evaluating Their Stability, Fiber Compatibility and Aesthetics
Mary Kaldany, Sigurros Sigurdardottir, Maria Berman

Page 63


Historic Royal Palaces Textile Conservation Studios: An Introduction
Robert Allen

Page 80


The Design, Planning and Implementation of the Antonio Ratti Textile Center Textile Study and Storage Facility at The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Elena Phipps

Page 87


Cradle System for Tapestry Installation
Michael P. Kociemba

Page 89


The Influence of Disaster Recovery on the Reinstallation of Historic Wall Coverings
Deirdre Windsor

Page 94


Upholstered Replacement Showcovers and Furnishings Approached as Compensation for Loss
Nancy Britton

Page 108


Comite National De Conservacion Textil (Chilean National Committee for Textile Conservation) 10 Years in the Field of Conservation
Maria Luisa Gruzmacher Gallo

Page 117

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  1998

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page v


When Patching is Impractical: Nontraditional Compensation for Loss in a Quilt
Susan R. Schmalz

Page 1


Insect Infestation: A Large Tapestry’s Fumigation and Stabilization for Storage
Betsy Gould

Page 9


Up on the Roof: Light Bleaching of Large Textiles, Two Case Studies
Joy Gardiner and Joanne Hackett

Page 15


Borohydride: An Alternative to Oxidative Bleaching of Cellulosic Textiles
Susan Adler

Page 27


Disaster Recovery: Teaching Textile Salvage Techniques to the First Response Team
Kathy Francis

Page 39


Disaster Recovery at the University of Alberta, or Every Flood has a Silver Lining
Shirley Ellis

Page 45


The Effects of Freeze-Drying on Selected Properties of Wool Fabric
Shawn Gardner Fischer

Page 53


Observations on Soot Removal from Textiles
Joanne Hackett

Page 63


From Archive to Database to Research Tool: The Transformation of an Uncatalogued Sample Collection into an Accessible Database
Robin Hanson

Page 71


A Disaster? Injuring Ourselves Through the Work We Love
Patricia Silence

Page 79


Reevaluating the Crafts Traditions of Textile Conservation
Sara J. Wolf

Page 85


Resumenes en Espanol / Abstracts in Spanish
Comite Nacional de Conservacion Textil, Chile

Page 87

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  1999

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page v


Cellulolytic Biodegradation of Cotton Fibers from a Deep Ocean Environment
Runying Chen, Kathryn A. Jakes

Page 1


Manufactured-Fiber Conservation: A Cause for Concern?
Lisa M. Ferreira

Page 11


The Cost of Conservation: Preserving a National Treasure - The Star-Spangled Banner Project
Suzanne Thomassen-Krauss

Page 19


Preventative Textile Conservation Care for a Collection of Functional Alter Frontals
Sharon Little

Page 25


The Application of Pluronic Surfactants to Textile Conservation
Julie Randolph, Linda Eaton, Richard Wolbers and Janice Carlson

Page 37


The Modern Bridal Gown: The Manufacture, Distribution, and Care of a Ritual Garment at the Turn of the 21st Century
Jerry Shiner

Page 43


Results of an Ergonomics Survey for Textile Conservators
Patricia Silence

Page 45


The Saga of New York State’s Battle Flags: How to Fund Conservation for a Heritage at Risk
Deborah Trupin

Page 49


Measuring Silk Deterioration: Investigation into the Usefullness of High-Performance Size Exculsion Chromatography
Season Tse, Anne-Laurence DuPont

Page 51


A Balancing Act: Determining Textile Conservation Treatments Working within Budgetary Concerns of the Clients and the Textile Conservation Center
Susan Wellnitz

Page 53


Resumenes en Espanol / Abstracts in Spanish
Comite Nacional de Conservacion Textil

Page 59

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  2000

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page v


Developing A Protocol for Analysis of Textile Finishes on Wool
Beth Szuhay, Janice Carlson, and Linda Eaton

Page 1


Dealing with Forgeries at the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum
Lizou Fenyvesi

Page 15


Fourier Transform-Infrared Microspectroscopy as an Effective Tool for Single Fiber Identification and Fiber Structural Analysis
Runying Chin, Kathryn A. Jakes, and Rekha Spinivasan

Page 25


Oxidation Products in Artificially Aged Cellulose Film
Frances Whitaker Mayhew and Ira Block

Page 39


Influence of Nitrogen Gas and Oxygen Scavengers on Fading and Color Change in Dyed Textiles
Judy J. Brott Buss and Patricia Cox Crews

Page 55


Hanger-Mannequins at the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum
Gail Singer

Page 69


The Evolution of American Tapestry Conservation
Camille Myers Breeze

Page 75


Preserving the Historic Document: Minimal Conservation Intervention for 18th- Century and 19th-Century Needlework and Pictorial Embroidery
Deirdre Windsor

Page 89


Recent Evolution in Textile Conservation
Joy Gardiner

Page 101


Poster: Overlay with a Difference: Using Thread to Create a Strong Edge Finish on Tetex TR
Renee Dancause

Page 109

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  2001

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page iv


Conservation of Maori Textiles Decorated with Traditional Dyes
Rangi Te Kanawa, Gerald J. Smith, Glenn A. Fenton and Ian J. Miller

Page 1


Mirror Imaging: The Art of Tapestry Revisited
Marion MacDonald and Patricia Hughes

Page 11


The Unfolding of a Sticky Situation: The Treatment of a 19th - Century Temple Hanging
Beth Szuhay and Joy Gardiner

Page 19


Identification and Degradation Analysis of Textiles Recovered from the Queen Anne’s Revece Shipwreck
Runying Chen and Wayne Lusardi

Page 27


Effectiveness of Soil Removal by Two New Nonionic Surfactants, Orvus WA Paste and Surfactant Blends
Rebecca Tinkham and Nancy Kerr

Page 47


A Storage System for Archaeological Textile Fragments
Lisa Anderson, Dominique Cocuzza, Susan Heald and Melinda McPeek

Page 59

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints
A Joint Session with the Objects Specialty Group Concerning Composite Objects - 2002

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page v


Initial Investigation into a Resinous Maya Burial Shroud
Candis Griggs
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 1


Textile Fragments Associated with Flaked Stone Symbols from the Maya Site of Altun Ha, Belize
Jill Plitnikas
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 11


Severely Degraded Textiles on Archaeological Artifacts at the Agora Excavations in Athens, Greece
Julie Unruh
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 25


The Conservation of a Third Century BCE Chinese Bronze Dagger-Axe with Organic Remains
E. D. Tully
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 37


Rhapsody in Blue: Kingfisher Feather Cloisonne in the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery
Ellen Salzman Chase and Blythe McCarthy
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 45


Conserving the Wright Brother's 1905 Flyer III: An Interdisciplinary and Logistical Challenge
Deborah Bede and Malcolm Collum
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 57


The Conservation of Frederic E. Church's Leather Arm Chair
Deborah Lee Trupin
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 67


Summary of Potential Artifact Damage from Low Temperature Pest Management
Ellen Carrlee
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 75


Collaborative Treatment of a Native American Robe from the Miami Community with Silk
Ribbonwork and Metal Decoration
Mika Takami, Susan Heald, and Jessica S. Johnson
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 85


Saving America's Treasures: Threatened Artifacts from the Apollo Era
Lisa Young
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 97


Conservation through Investigation: Uncovering the Story of a Japanese Ceremonial Doll
Lara Kaplan
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 105


Four Spanish Polychrome Processional Sculptures from the Early 18th- Century and a Masterpiece in Focus.
Maureen Russell
ABSTRACT (links to OSG site)

Page 119


Poster

 


Yet Another Padded Hanger
Jane L. Merritt and Carol B. Reed

Page 133

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  2003

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page v


Trail by Fire: Fire Retardants Ignite Research Project on Exhibit Case Materials
Alyssa Becker and Susan Heald

Page 1


Effects of Light and Heat Aging on Selected Quilting Products Containing Adhesives
Janet Evenson and Patricia Cox Crews

Page 13


A Question of Color for a 19th Century Silk Fabric with Metal Threads
Bonnie Halvorson and Molly McNamara

Page 27


Theorem Paintings: Potential Treatment Options
Joanne M. Klaar and Susan Anne Mathisen

Page 35


Beneath the Grime: Measuring the Effects of Preservation Treatments for Textiles
Fenella G. France

Page 45


Optical Microscopy Techniques for Examination of Alpaca Hair Fibers: Application to Archaeological Textiles
Angela M. Curl and Kathryn A. Jakes

Page 53


Peel Strength and Reversibility of Adhesive Support Treatments on Textiles: The Nature of Bond Failure as Revealed by Scanning Electron Microscopy
Irene Karsten and Nancy Kerr

Page 69


The Development of the Sows Ear Mount and How it is Affixed to the Wall: A Custom Contour Exhibit Support for Textiles
Joy Gardiner and Julia M. Burke

Page 83

A Chilling Experience: The Treatment of A Robert Rauschenberg Hoarfrost Painting
Zoe Annis Perkins

Page 95

Adventures in Bleaching
Deborah Bede

Page 103

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  2004

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page v


Determining the Efficacy of Cyclododecane as a Barrier for a Reduction Bleaching Treatment of a Silk Embroidered Linen Napkin
Yadin Larochette

Page 1


Germ Theory
Mary W. Ballard and Norman Indictor

Page 11


The Characterization and Identification of Azlons (Regenerated Protein Fibers)
Denyse Montegut

Page 21


Effects of Accelerated Heat and Light Aging on Textiles Marked with Fabric Marking Pens
Janet Evenson and Patricia Cox Crews

Page 23


For the Public Eye: The Excavation and Return of Original Upholstery Chosen by Mrs. Anna Ramsey for a Reception Room Suite of Furnishings from 1872
Ann Frisina

Page 33


The Conservation, Restoration, and Exhibition of a 19th Century Dress from the Merchant’s House Museum
Helen Kapodistrias

Page 43


Conservation of Wall Coverings at Gillette Castle
Camille Myers Breeze

Page 55


The Burned Tapestries of the Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine: What Can We Learn from the Ashes?
Marlene Eidelheit and Sabrina de Vanna

Page 65


Catch the Wave: A Flexible New Option for Quilt Display
Deirdre Windsor

Page 77


The Development of a Sectional Trampoline Mount, or How to Fit an 8 by 12 Foot Framed Flag into an Elevator with a 7 by 5 Foot Door
Deborah Lee Trupin and Sarah C. Stevens

Page 85


The Conservation of Richard Greene or How an Object Became by Friend
Nancy Love

Page 93


POSTERS

 


Conservation and Assembly of an Ethnographic Textile
Aranzazu Hopkins Barriga

Page 99


Water Use in Conservation Treatment: A Case for Standards?
Veronica Bullock

Page 105


Form and Function: Fifties Furniture Becomes Fine Art
Cary Beattie Maguire

Page 115


Plastics in Twentieth-Century Costume Collections
Renee Walker and Margaret Ordonez

Page 125

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  2005

 

 

 

Table of Contents

 

 

 

Preface

Page v


Collections Care at the Antonio Ratti Textile Conservation Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Rebecca Fifield and Giovanna Fiorino-Iannace

Page 1


Documenting and Implementing Conservation Requests from Native Communities
Lauren Chang and Susan Heald

Page 9


The Role of Historic Documentation in a Contemporary Textile Project
Robin M. Hanson

Page 19


Conservation Training on Three Continents: One Student’s Exposure to Different Treatment and Documentation Practices
Yadin Larochette

Page 31


The Seminar Workshop as an Education Model: Teaching Textile Conservation at the Escuela Nacional de Conservacion, Restauracion Y Museografia
Rosa Lorena Roman Torres and Abner Gutierrez Ramos

Page 37


Second Time’s the Curse: The Shattered Silks of Schiaparelli
Sara Reitter, Howard Sutcliffe, Ken Sutherland and Beth A. Price

Page 43


Slings and Arrows: Safe Costume Transport
Mary C. Baughman

Page 51


Improving Accessibility of a Textile and Fashion Arts Collection at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Meredith Montague

Page 53


Preliminary Study of a Micro Extraction Method for Measuring the pH of Textiles
Jan Vuori and Season Tse

Page 63


POSTERS / TIPS

 


Photoyellowing and Photobleaching of Silk and Wool Fabrics Under Monochromatic and Multichromatic Light Radiation
Erika Takamura, Kunio Yoshizumi and Patricia Cox Crews

Page 75


Splitting Hairs: A Sampling Technique for Fibers
Anne Murray

Page 83


Custom Skirt Hanger
Katherine Sahmel and Lisa Stockebrand

Page 87

 

 

The Textile Specialty Group Postprints -  2006

 

 

 

Preface

Page V


Mounts Altered: Mounting Textiles to Meet the Needs of Clients
Gwen Spicer

Page 1


The Hyde House Furnishing Plan: Scholarship and Science to the Rescue
Erin B. Coe

Page 11


A Case of Compromise: Working With Guest Curators
Lucy Commoner

Page 21


It’s Impossible to be an Eighteenth-Century British Loyalist Without a Waistcoat and Ancillary Items
Sunae Park Evans

Page 31


Reconstruction, Reproduction, Replication, Re-Creation: Synonyms in the Costume History and Textile Conservation Literature? A Matter of Perspective
Renee Dancause

Page 41


Costume Dilemmas: “Dangerous Liasons”
Chris Paulocik

Page 55


The Compromise and Rewards of Textile Conservation Training in Far Flung Places From Madagascar to Bhutan
Julia Brennan

Page 65


Wide Format Digital Inkjet Printing for Textile Conservation
Nancy Britton, Chris Paulocik, and Jan Vuori

Page 75


Poster

 


Hair Consolidation and Treatment of an Insect Damaged Dancing Hat From Sierra Leone
Anya McDavis-Conway, Jakki Godfrey, Bruno P. Pouliot, and Richard Wolbers

Page 87

 

 

 

 

Contact the TSG for comments, suggestions or submissions at AICTSG@yahoo.com
last updated: March 1, 2008